Best
experienced in on a warm crowded night in Monterosso by following the sounds and
jovial singing, laughing and commotion and
seeing this . . . .
A group
of anyone from older men to kids dressed in knee length cut off shorts, plaid shirts,
tattered straw hats, faces dirtied by burnt corks with bare feet carrying oars
or adorned with ropes and lemon peel wire glasses. This is the Bescanta`. Bescanta`
was traditionally done in the period of Carnival between Christmas and Fat Tuesday
and their costumes represented the traditional thrown-together costumes of
Italian Carnival. Bescanta' began years ago then fell out of practice during the years
surrounding WWII. When it picked back up it began being done during the tourist
season in order to share the tradition and keep it alive.
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| Bescanta' and followers beckoning upon Il Pozzo Restuarant. |
What the
Bescanta` traditionally did has been called a sort of 'social control,'
they were only men in the past dressed as warn down poor fishermen and went to the window of the wealthy singing a song in the local dialect Monterossino inserting the name of whom they are beckoning. This was a kind of invite for these people to
offer up food or wine to have their name crossed off the list in important book
carried around by the Bescanta`. In reality there was nothing written in the book
, but the idea was that if you gave up some goods to the Bescanta' they would
not reveal private and sometimes compromising details about your life or more
so your wife's life and actions. Bescanta`
does not beckon private homes anymore, but bars and restaurants who are more
than happy to entertain. Nor do they 'air
out' personal issues, but broad social
or political controversies, more a poking fun at the issues surrounding us.
Amapola
theatre group are the major promoters of the Bescanta`. Amapola a dialect theater
is made of locals form Monterosso, Vernazza, surrounding villages. The writer
and director of the is a man from Monterosso and the scripts are predominantly
written in Monterosso dialect, depending on the character. Another peculiarity that sets Amapola apart is
that the village doubles as their stage.
In this particular play 'The house of the laughing windows' the actors
yelled their squabbles out the window, just as villagers had done once upon a
time. Here the actors colorful lines
that poked fun at tourism, funny
characters, Italian politics and different things that may have happened during
the flood. Although Dialect is difficult
to understand even to some Italians the expressions and gestures of the actors are
almost impossible not to understand s they are egged on by the crowd below.
| Tribute to the 'mud angels' who all helped us get to where we are today. |
The
night began with food and wine whose profits will go to the restoration of the
oratory and ended in singing and dancing!
* Much information in regards to Bescanta` and Amapola thanks to the research done by Francesco Bravin for his thesis 'Monterosso fra Turismo e tradizione" 2007

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