The beginnings of Monterosso

Let’s start way back at the beginning...

The first legends of the settlement of Monterosso date back to the mid 600’s, when people from the inland started venturing down towards the sea. During this period, the population that was to form the original settlement of Monterosso lived in the area called Albereto, a heavily wooded area of hills and valleys just minutes inland from the coast but undetectable from the sea. This settlement was victim to enemy raids and eventually forced over the hillsides towards the valley of Monterosso. However, before moving down directly near the sea, they first lived near the spot where currently the Shrine of the Madonna of the Savior  (Santuario della Madonna del Soviore) is located and eventually settled on the hilltop of Saint Christopher. This gradual move took more than 400 years to complete. Here we can imagine a nucleus of just a few families living in very primitive conditions.

This hilltop, which divides the ‘new side’ of the village from the historic center, is now the site of the town cemetery. This cemetery is built into the old fortress and partial remains of an walled settlement from which the entirety of the valley is visible. Besides the fact that most perils arrived from the sea and therefore it was dangerous to live close to the water, the original Monterossini were farmers, not fishermen, and so it was most convenient to be farther up the hillside than by the sea. 

When visiting Monterosso, make sure that you visit the cemetery and walk all the way up to the upper level. You can reach it by walking up the pathway that starts at the end of Via Buranco in the historic area of town. 

As you follow this old pathway, which winds though olive groves and wild cherry trees, you’ll pass by the Buranco winery and the old covered valley of Via Buranco. Below you’ll see ancient high walls, originally built to shield the citrus groves from cold winds coming from the hills above. Follow this path until you find a stairwell to your left. At the top of the stairway you will find a metal gate and the entry to the cemetery. 

Once in the cemetery, walk forward and up the modern stairs until you see old walls to your right. An old brick stairwell will lead you up to the highest point of the cemetery.

At one time, this spot was an important vantage point in protecting the village. The complete view of the coastline was critical for alerting the townspeople of potential danger and the isolated fortress on top of the hill was able to be completely secured against any kind of intruder.

If you are with kids (or even if you’re not!) look up as you pass through the stone gate while walking up the stairs. Above you, you will see a chute and a narrow passageway to arrive to it. You can also see holes carved into the stone where the entry would be bolted shut. Remember those stories of pouring boiling oil on unwanted intruders? This is where it really happened. As outsiders tried to beat down the door to attack the population, the Monterossini would surprise them from above. 

Once you have come back down the brick stairs into the main part of the cemetery, work your way to the right where you will see the church of Saint Christopher (closed but you can peek in the window) and the stairs that lead down towards town facing it. Looking down these stairs, you will have one of the best views possible of Monterosso.

Below, once on the small path, turn to your right and follow the path to the Convent of Saint Francis and then keep following any stairs downhill to return back to the historic center of Monterosso.

*Please DO visit and appreciate this special spot of Monterosso but remember that above all, it is a place of personal reflection and quiet worship. Please do not speak loudly or show any kind of behavior that could be interpreted as disrespectful.*

See the chute above the entryway in the photo above? If you were an intruder, you would think twice about trying to break that door down.

One of the original towers of the fortress of Monterosso, built into the walls of the cemetery. 

The photographs above are taken from the fascinating book by Maria Ida Capellini  and Valeria Zattera. If you can read Italian (or even if you cannot - the pictures are worth the book), we highly recommend buying it. You can find it in newspaper shops and in the train station newspaper stand of Levanto.